Paddle Surf
Your First Day On A Surfboard
If you want to learn how to surf you need to think of it like any other skill. You need the right equipment, some good instruction and plenty of practice.
The first thing you will need is the right surfboard. A common mistake that many make is trying to learn to surf on a board that is too short. While professional surfers might choose a short board for learning it is recommended that you choose a larger board.
I recommend that you select a board that is at least 9 feet long for learning. For stability and buoyancy I suggest that you choose a board that is both wide and thick. You might like to choose a board that has a soft-top or a foam deck as these are far more forgiving when you are learning.
Then you will need some suitable swimwear. Remember that you are going to be spending prolonged periods of time in the sea so, if it’s cold where you are, you will want to be wearing a wetsuit. If its warm and sunny then you can get by with a cool pair of board shorts or a bikini will be OK.
Once you have the gear that you need the next thing to do is get used to your surfboard on dry land before hitting the water. The surfer technique that you should aim to master on your first day is the ‘pop-up’. This is where you quickly lift yourself into an upright position from being face down on the board.
Start by laying your board on the beach, deck side upwards, and lie down on the board with your head about one third of the board’s length from the front. This is the position you will be in when paddling out to catch a wave. Be sure to apply enough sun protection to your back, or wear a t-shirt to protect your chest from getting a rash.
Grasp the board on either side, at about shoulder level, and lift yourself up so that your feet are at the same point on the board as your hands. You should now be crouching on the board with your knees bent. In this position you are now ready to stand upright.
Repeat this manouvre over and over again until you are totally confident on dry land. Paddle out to just beyond where the waves are breaking and turn around so that your board is pointing in the direction that the waves are moving. Paddle forwards until you feel your board being pushed forward by the waves and the try the pop-up move.
Mastering this move will take a lot of practice but, by the end of the first day, you should have it under your belt.
Peahi (Jaws) paddle surf session 2-8-11
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